Europe has some superb winter resorts. Most individuals robotically head to the Alps, nevertheless it’s completely price protecting an open thoughts for different mountain ranges, particularly in case you like issues a bit extra relaxed and genuine.
Enter the Pyrenees.
The Pyrenees provide a extra rugged, wild-feeling different to the Alps, with smaller villages, friendlier value tags, and correct mountain character. You may trip powder within the morning and finish the day soaking in thermal swimming pools or lingering over a hearty dinner in a stone-built village.
Final summer season I used to be already within the space and people rock formations actually surprised me – by no means what I anticipated. So I used to be severely trying ahead to coming again in winter, testing the pistes and situations with a snowboard beneath my ft.
Right here is an summary:
Why go? Genuine appeal, usually decrease costs than many big-name Alpine resorts, and the prospect to expertise completely different valleys and vibes in a single journey.
Should do: Spend a day snowboarding or snowboarding the Pic du Midi space or Saint-Lary-Soulan, then unwind in one of many thermal baths that the area is known for.
Professional tip: Renting a automotive makes it a lot simpler to hop between valleys, ski areas and villages, however in winter you’ll need winter tyres or snow chains – mountain passes right here can get correctly snowy.
On this journey I rode the areas round Pic du Midi (Grand Tourmalet), plus Vallée du Louron, Saint-Lary-Soulan and Piau Engaly / Peyragudes.
If you wish to plan your personal route via the French Pyrenees, the official vacation spot website pyrenees-holiday.com is a extremely helpful hub for concepts, maps and present information.
Arrival within the French Pyrenees
Normally I pack my automotive and drive 8–9 hours into the Alps, with the entire automotive swallowed by snowboard gear. From my hometown to the Pyrenees, although, it will be nearer to a 15-hour drive, so this time I went for the flight possibility. I flew into Toulouse, which is then roughly a 2-hour drive to quite a lot of the primary ski valleys… rather more lifelike for a protracted weekend.
Subsequent time, if I keep longer, I’d in all probability drive once more, only for the flexibleness.
It’s additionally price checking if you will get a flight to Tarbes–Lourdes–Pyrénées Airport, which is nearer to resorts like Grand Tourmalet and Saint-Lary than Toulouse. There’s additionally Altiport Peyresourde–Balestas (close to Peyragudes), which is used for small plane and typically winter operations, however schedules are restricted and really seasonal. All the time double-check routes and availability in your dates.
And sure, there may be that one “shitty airline” flying into a few of these smaller airports – many individuals use it fairly fortunately. I nonetheless keep away from for good causes. 😏
Picture by CallumJelley, INTERSPORT.
Rental Gear
As an alternative of paying a heavy baggage price to convey my very own snowboard, I rented my whole setup at an Intersport store within the resort – together with boots. That meant I might journey with hand baggage solely and nonetheless have every part I wanted for a correct snowboard journey. I simply clipped my helmet onto the skin of my small backpack and no person minded. If they’d, it will have develop into my “flight-security-helmet”. 😉
On my subsequent journey I’ll convey my very own boots. Rental boots have been OKish, however with my very own I do know I get the precise grip and match I like.
The remainder? That’s as much as Intersport, and I used to be very pleased with the rental gear. The standard of rental skis and snowboards is high, and also you’ll discover Intersport outlets in just about each main ski resort, typically multiple. So getting gear is not any challenge, and costs are truthful… 19 € per day for a weekend rental, is superb worth in comparison with airline baggage charges.
For reference, a 3‑day rental (snowboard + boots) value:
- 56 € net value
- 53 € constancy value
- 112 € in-store value
It’s roughly 14 € cheaper in case you convey your personal boots. Helmet rental can be round 12 € for 3 days. Costs do differ between outlets and resorts, nevertheless it’s nonetheless usually cheaper than paying for cumbersome sports activities baggage on a flight.
You may browse choices and e book your gear forward of time right here: www.intersportrent.com
Intersport runs greater than 750 ski rent outlets throughout the Alps and Pyrenees, so that you’re not often removed from a store or rental counter within the larger resorts. Renting on-site saves airline baggage charges, lightens what you haul via airports, and ensures you get freshly serviced skis or boards arrange by individuals who do that all season.
You may usually swap tools if situations change (e.g., go from an all‑mountain board to one thing extra freeride‑oriented, or from piste skis to one thing with extra float). Many outlets even have trendy boot-fitting setups, together with Boot Physician scanners in chosen areas, which assist to match the proper becoming boots to your ft.
Ski and Snowboard Baggage with Air France
For those who wish to include their very own gear. Likely you’ll get a flight with Air France and so they deal with ski and snowboard tools as normal baggage, so long as it suits inside your checked baggage allowance and also you’re not on a “Gentle” fare. In follow which means: one pair of skis with poles and boots, or one snowboard with boots, in applicable baggage with a mixed size beneath 300 cm. Boots might be in a separate bag, however ski/board bag plus boot bag rely as one piece.
If you’d like additional baggage or exceed measurement/weight, you pay additional choices on-line or on the airport. Helmets within the cabin rely as a part of your hand baggage. ABS avalanche backpacks have to be declared prematurely and authorised no less than 48 hours earlier than departure as a consequence of security laws. For the most recent baggage guidelines and any modifications, all the time double-check the present Air France Baggage Information on their web site earlier than you fly.
Ski resort La Mongie and Pic du Midi
The primary cease within the French Pyrenees was La Mongie. We arrived after darkish, catching solely silhouettes of the mountains round us. Waking up and pulling again the curtains is the magic second on any mountain journey… and right here it was only a sea of white, with mountains rolling off in each route.
La Mongie is on the Grand Tourmalet area, named after the well-known Tourmalet move from the Tour de France. The ski space hyperlinks La Mongie on one facet with Barèges on the opposite, giving a great mixture of lengthy groomers, large pistes and extra adventurous areas when the snow is correct.
Within the morning we grabbed our gear and hit many of the the pistes and in addition the one which run from La Mongie throughout into the broader Grand Tourmalet space. Round noon we took the cable automotive as much as Pic du Midi, in all probability essentially the most iconic summit within the French Pyrenees. This peak is residence to an observatory, a museum space, a restaurant and an enormous viewing terrace. On a transparent day, you get severe, horizon‑filling views over Pyrenees ridgelines and much into Spain.
Contained in the advanced, there are exhibitions in regards to the website’s historical past and astronomy, plus tools like sun-tracking telescopes. It’s genuinely spectacular how they constructed and keep all of this on a excessive, uncovered summit. The restaurant du Pic du Midi was the ultimate contact that made it even higher.
Sensible information (tickets, restaurant, opening particulars): picdumidi.com
If you happen to like going off‑piste, it’s attainable to trip down from Pic du Midi, greatest with a information and solely when the situations are protected. There’s a flatter part between steeper pitches which might be annoying on a snowboard, particularly if the snow is gradual, so maintain that in thoughts. I selected to trip from the mid‑station as a substitute, which ought to have been a playful line. On my day it was icy, so it wasn’t fairly the dreamy pow run – however on the proper day, this space is a traditional Pyrenees freeride expertise.
Restaurant du Pic du Midi
The Restaurant du Pic du Midi sits on the base of the museum advanced on the high cable automotive station. The inside is easy, minimalist and trendy – first impression is sort of canteen‑like – however the plates that come out of the kitchen are way more refined than that vibe suggests.
Substances are sourced domestically from producers within the area, and so they’re listed on the menu, which is a pleasant contact in case you wish to know the place your meals comes from. Employees have been pleasant and environment friendly, and, after all, the actual star is the large panorama exterior the home windows.
Information and reservations:
Hôtel La Voie Lactée (La Mongie)
This lodge turned out to be an excellent choose. It’s a 4‑star property proper by the slopes in La Mongie that was fully renovated and reopened in 2023, and it exhibits: every part from the foyer to the rooms seems to be recent, heat and thoughtfully designed.
The decor is fashionable with out feeling excessive – numerous good materials, colors and particulars, even the crockery stands out. Employees have been pleasant and switched simply into good English, which helped rather a lot since my French is… not nice. My room was tremendous comfy, with wonderful bedding and among the coziest pillows and mattress I’ve had shortly. Getting up early for first lifts was genuinely a problem.
The lodge additionally leans and really pushes sustainability, which is so necessary! For instance, the stylish wash basin in my toilet was constructed from recycled plastic collected on French seashores. It seemed good and that’s one of many some ways to do it proper.
Breakfast was one other spotlight: diversified, beneficiant and with loads of good-quality native merchandise. The view from my room, searching over snow‑coated peaks and lifts heading up into the mountains, was a type of views you bear in mind lengthy after you’ve checked out.
Peyragudes and Vallée du Louron
Subsequent up was Peyragudes, and that is the place the storm actually kicked in. It began snowing throughout the night time and simply didn’t cease. Till late within the afternoon there was sufficient recent snow that you can do powder activates the pistes themselves. Visibility got here and went – one second you noticed the subsequent marker, the subsequent you have been in a white bubble – which made it fairly difficult for learners, however for powder lovers it was a enjoyable setup.
There are many chairlifts in Peyragudes, so even on a weekend we barely queued. It wasn’t a loopy busy interval anyway, and having a mixture of large pistes and ungroomed edges made it simple to search out your personal strains. Peyragudes sits above the Louron Valley, which has actually leaned into a mixture of snowboarding, thermal baths and out of doors actions, so it’s a great base in case you like selection over every week.
L’étape du rider by chez Manu
After slicing some strains within the recent snow we stopped for lunch at L’étape du rider, a small, cosy hut proper on the piste. Location‑smart it’s perfect: clip out of your bindings, stroll just a few steps, and also you’re inside with one thing sizzling in your fingers.
On busy days, it’s smart to order, particularly if you wish to sit inside. On sunny days, the terrace is the place to be, with views over the slopes when the clouds clear. The menu runs from correct meals like burgers and lasagne to sizzling sweets and mulled wine. The whole lot we tried was tasty, the service was cheerful, and the environment felt relaxed moderately than rushed. I obtained instructed the mountain views are normally nice – I primarily noticed a wall of snowflakes.
Maison La Flambée (Bordères-Louron)
Maison La Flambée is a giant, cosy cottage in Bordères-Louron that’s good in case you’re travelling with a gaggle or as a household. It hits that candy spot between character and practicality: numerous bedrooms, a number of bogs, a totally geared up kitchen and sufficient house that individuals can unfold out a bit.
There’s an enormous kitchen the place you may prepare dinner huge meals collectively, a pool desk for evenings, a heat oven, and a terrace the place you may sit out when the climate permits. It really works effectively for multi‑technology journeys or a gaggle of associates. The encompassing Louron Valley is gorgeous and provides snowboarding, mountain climbing, and loads of slower‑paced “simply loosen up” time. The homeowners are pleasant and really fingers‑on in case you need assistance with something.
Aside Resort des Cols
Aside Resort des Cols is one other strong base within the space. Rooms are properly adorned, beds are comfy, and every part feels effectively maintained. Small touches like intelligent lighting and correct blackout blinds make a giant distinction after lengthy days within the snow.
Every unit has somewhat kitchen nook with what it’s worthwhile to put collectively breakfast or easy meals. By automotive it’s simple to succeed in Loudenvielle and Saint-Lary, so you may ski one valley, soak in one other and nonetheless be again at your home with no lengthy drive. It really works effectively if you wish to discover on foot, by bike or by automotive in different seasons, and in winter it’s shut sufficient to the lifts to make ski days easy. The bar space is an effective spot to unwind with a drink and meet different visitors. If you happen to ought to resolve to have raclette within the night, don’t bbq your meat on the high… in case you do, watch the fireplace alarm. 😏
Balnéa Spa (Loudenvielle)
After a full day on the mountain, Balnéa in Loudenvielle is a traditional place to decelerate. It’s the primary giant thermal leisure centre within the French Pyrenees, set proper within the Louron Valley, and makes use of naturally sulfurous thermal water in its swimming pools. There are themed areas impressed by completely different bathing cultures – Roman, Japanese, Inca, Native American – plus a separate Tibetan zone targeted on therapies and massages.
You’ll discover each indoor and out of doors swimming pools, together with areas geared toward households and extra quiet corners (no less than in principle). When it’s busy, count on noise virtually in every single place, particularly within the household swimming pools; one pool was full of small youngsters and infants after I visited, so be ready for that.
Males will not be allowed to put on swim shorts; tight‑becoming swimwear is required, and you should purchase a suitable pair on the entrance for round 16 €. I do not know why, nevertheless it appears to be some sort of unusual regulation in France.
Sensible information and present costs:
Saint-Lary-Soulan
The snow nonetheless didn’t let up after we moved on to Saint-Lary-Soulan, which made for one more wonderful day on the board. A part of our group went totally off‑piste with a information. It was my first journey again into the snow that season and my ankle was nonetheless complaining after torn ligaments, so I made a decision to dial it again a bit and stayed “principally” on marked runs.
Judging by the images I noticed afterwards, that was not my most impressed determination. They scored deep powder and large smiles. I nonetheless had a enjoyable day lapping the pistes, however subsequent time I’ll be extra tempted to hitch our information Polo on the steeper strains.
You begin your day by taking the gondola from the village of Saint-Lary-Soulan as much as Pla d’Adet. From there, the ski space opens up with completely different sectors and a great mixture of runs. Circumstances for us have been unbelievable – recent snow, clouds principally sitting decrease within the valleys, and good visibility increased up.
Saint-Lary-Soulan’s ski space is likely one of the largest within the Pyrenees, with round 100–105 km of pistes between roughly 1,600 and a pair of,515 metres altitude, served by about two dozen lifts. It stretches from the village (a correct spa city within the valley) as much as excessive, open slopes with lengthy runs and an honest snowpark.
We kicked issues off at Pla d’Adet with a espresso at La Bergerie, then spent the day exploring completely different pistes and following one of the best snow.
Les 3 Guides
Les 3 Guides is a helpful spot to take a break within the Saint-Lary ski space. It’s near a elevate, so you may simply time a fast cease between laps or use it as a extra relaxed lunch base. Employees have been pleasant, fast and environment friendly, even when issues obtained busy.
You may seize something from a easy espresso or a chilly drink to full plates and snacks. On sunny days, the massive terrace is the place you wish to be, searching over the slopes. If the climate turns, the indoor space is cosy sufficient to cover from the wind and snowfall for some time.
The City Saint-Lary-Soulan
Saint-Lary-Soulan itself is a giant a part of why this space works so effectively for a winter journey. It’s a correct Pyrenean village moderately than only a function‑constructed resort, with stone homes, slender streets and a centre that feels lived‑in yr‑spherical. In winter, every part is geared in the direction of skiers and snowboarders, however you continue to get that small‑city environment moderately than simply rows of house blocks.
The village is called a spa city, with a thermal centre (Sensoria) that makes use of sizzling spring water from the valley. After a day on the slopes you may swap your boots for a swimsuit and soak in heat swimming pools with mountain views. The primary avenue is lined with bars, eating places and outlets, plus a vacationer workplace the place you may choose up maps or information on snowshoes, off‑piste guides and winter mountain climbing.
What a shock… there may be even an Irish Pub.
Saint-Lary can be a hub for different actions within the Aure Valley: snowshoe journeys, sledding, ice waterfalls in chilly spells, canine sledding and even paragliding flights when the climate cooperates. The valley additionally provides entry to wild corners of the Pyrenees just like the Néouvielle Nature Reserve and Lac de l’Oule space, which you’ll be able to attain from the resort through ski runs or lifts after which discover with a information.
The village itself sits roughly 2 hours by highway from Toulouse and about an hour from the Spanish border through the tunnel, which makes it simple to mix a French Pyrenees base with a facet‑journey into Spain when you have a automotive.
Le Gros Minet
Le Gros Minet is a type of Saint-Lary-Soulan addresses that locals and returning visitors are likely to know. Tucked simply off the primary avenue in a small deadlock, it has been round for many years and mixes a relaxed tapas‑bar really feel with a correct grill restaurant. Suppose full of life environment, wooden‑fired flavours and plates which are made for sharing after a protracted day within the chilly.
The menu leans in the direction of conventional French cooking with a Pyrenean twist: grilled meats cooked over charcoal, hearty dishes, salads and tapas‑model small plates you may cut up with the desk. It’s not haute delicacies, however hearty, satisfying meals with beneficiant parts. I selected the duck burger, which was yummy. The eating room is compact and fills up rapidly in peak weeks, so reserving forward is strongly advisable throughout the winter season.
Why the French Pyrenees Are Price It
After this journey, it’s fairly clear why the French Pyrenees deserve extra consideration from skiers and snowboarders: you get severe mountains, good snow, and sufficient terrain to maintain you busy for every week – however with a extra laid‑again vibe and normally higher worth than many huge Alpine names.
You may mix completely different valleys like Grand Tourmalet, Vallée du Louron and Aure Valley, combine powder days with thermal baths, and base your self in actual villages like Saint-Lary-Soulan or Loudenvielle that also really feel alive exterior peak weeks. With simple gear rental via networks like Intersport, plus airports like Toulouse and Tarbes-Lourdes not too far-off, organising a protracted weekend or a full week is simple.
If you happen to like the concept of huge mountains however smaller crowds for much less cash, and swapping the traditional Alpine clichés for one thing a bit extra rugged and genuine, the French Pyrenees ought to be very excessive in your winter checklist.
